If you have dreamed of boarding a ship and waking up a day or so later on an enchanted isle, a New York-to-Bermuda cruise is the trip for you.

Sailing on Celebrity's Zenith out of New York Harbor, past Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty, beneath the Verranzo-Narrows Bridge and out into the Atlantic is an experience of a lifetime. A day and a half later, it is followed by the thrill of sailing past seaside mansions and quaint dollhouse cottages, through Two Rock Passage into the harbor of Hamilton, Bermuda. Talk about having it all from the comfort of a luxurious ship!

A cruise to Bermuda differs from a traditional cruise in that the ship docks at only one island. Granted, mid-way through its 4-day Bermuda stay, the Zenith moves from the island's capitol of Hamilton to historic St. George's. By land, this is a mere 10 miles to travel, though it's a bit further by the time the captain pulls anchor, navigates past tiny islands and reefs and takes the ship out to sea.

Arriving at St. George's an hour or so later is an experience of another kind: navigating the narrow channel leading to St. George's harbor. A harbor boat pilot told my husband and me that large cruise liners enter the St. George's channel with but a dozen or so feet to spare on either size of the ship and a mere 5 feet of draft at the bottom of the channel. That's 5 feet between the bottom of the ship and the sea floor.

Before we embarked on the Bermuda cruise, we called our daughter, who had cruised to the island 18 months ago. What is there to do on Bermuda? we had asked.

Once we arrived there, we realized it was a case of so much to do and so little time. By pre-arrangement, my husband and I had planned to spend time walking the Bermuda Railway Trail, an 18-mile long national walking trail built on the bedrock of the island's one-time railroad. This we did, several hours for each of the four days that the ship was docked. It's a trip we'd recommend to anyone who wants to get out and go for a good walk. The trail is impeccably maintained, it takes in scenery to die for and it introduces walkers to backstage Bermuda, sights and sounds that one misses by visiting only the resorts and golf courses. One of the high points of walking the trail at the eastern end of the island was coming onto Whalebone Bay at Ferry Point Park, a quintessential picnic spot if ever there were one. The cove at Whalebone Bay is covered in pink sand and overlooking the cove is a historic cemetery where soldiers, who died of Yellow Fever, were buried in the early 1800s.

No matter what your interests, the Bermuda cruise is perfect for almost everyone, including families. This cruise is ideal for children and, on this trip, a lot of youngsters were enjoying a holiday with their parents. (By the way, the Bermuda Railway Trail is a great place for kids to explore and run off some energy in a safe environment while mom and dad take in the scenery.)

In addition, quite a number of passengers were wheelchair bound. Yet, EVERYONE appeared to be having a good time. The ship is wheelchair- accessible, making it a natural choice for folks with physical limitations.

Bermuda offers numerous attractions. They include The Royal Dockyards, which were built in the mid 1800s as a garrison to protect the west end of the island. Shopping at the Dockyards is unique because it was here that we could find the only vendors on the island selling homemade Bermuda crafts.

* The historic town of St. George's. We strolled St George's at sunset, finding ourselves in another early 1800s cemetery that surrounds historic St. Peter's Church. From its vantage point on a hill overlooking the little town and the surrounding bays and inlets, we could feel a sense of quiet and peacefulness that earmarks the island. St George's also is home to quaint shops and a historic waterfront that includes the stocks, where one-time residents were publicly incarcerated for their wrong-doings and the ducking stool, which served the same purpose.

* Hamilton and the surrounding area, including Gibbs Hill Lighthouse and the grand Southampton Princess Hotel. In Hamilton, we gazed at the ornate interior of the Anglican Church, the oldest such church in the western hemisphere. We shopped Front Street and took a lot of photos of the bright -colored buildings. Woe to merchants who do not paint their buildings bright yellow, turquoise and even orange. Those who opt for neutral in Bermuda are out of step, indeed.

Stopping in Hamilton offers a particular kick because the cruise ships dock right on Front Street. Cruisers can walk off the ship and into a shopping mecca. Looking back at the ship, one is reminded of home where your car is parked against the curb next to your house. Same thing in Hamilton, but this time it is the ship that's parked -- and right next to where you want to be!

A myriad of organized tours are available in Bermuda -- everything from beach trips to snorkeling and diving expeditions, excursions to Bermuda's tiny but intriguing zoo and aquarium and even an outing to a perfume factory. More than 20 tours are listed in the shore excursion book.

Travelers returned to the ship with good reports about the tours, but those who want to see the island on their own can do it easily. Just hop aboard one of Bermuda's trademark pink buses and you are off. The bus station is a quick walk from the ship both in Hamilton and St. George's, and bus stops are scattered throughout the island. Just look for the trademark navy blue and pink barbershop-type poles, which signal bus stops, and you are on your way.

In short, Bermuda is everything a traveler could ask. The people are welcoming, the island is as neat as the proverbial pin and, with the crystal clear blue water and nearby reefs, the scenery and the water sports are spectacular. The weather in May was a perfect 75 to 80 degrees. (Summers, however, can be warmer and humid.) English is the spoken language. Having two days at sea, one going to Bermuda and one returning, is an added gift of time to relax. If you are lucky (we were!) you might see porpoises cavorting in the ocean.

Best of all, a cruise is the affordable way to visit Bermuda. Hotels and resorts on the island are pricey. A cruise vacation can be had for a beginning price of about $1200. That's about the cost of just 4 days in one of the hotel resorts, but it does not include airfare and meals. Cruise prices, of course, vary according to cabin type and its placement on the ship.

Mark Twain was an early visitor to Bermuda. So impressed was he, that he quipped, Those who are on their way to heaven should stop off first at Bermuda. That's where they may decide to stay.

Twain had it right. One cruise to Bermuda begs for another. It is, indeed, an enchanting isle.